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Coenobita Brevimanus/ Indonesian/ Indo Care Sheet

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Coenobita Brevimanus/ Indonesian/ Indo Care Sheet

PostAuthor: tigermoon89 » Sat Jan 15, 2011 8:07 pm

Coenobita Brevimanus/ Indonesian/ Indo/ Brevimanus Roseus: Pink Indo Caresheet

Id Characteristics:
Reg. Brevimanus body coloring will be purple. Pink Indo will be pink or light purple/pink.
Very large big pincher. Eye-stalks are rounded.

Housing:
10gal glass tank minimum with glass or plexiglass lid is recommended, as it holds in heat and humidity better. It is important to vent the tank daily in order to allow clean air circulation.

UVA and UVB lighting:UVA lighting is shown to increase social behavior in reptiles. This is due to the markings revealed under the use of UVA lighting. Other members of the species are able to identify their species by the markings revealed by the UVA light.

UVB lighting:
Helps increase the absorption of vitamin D3.

Many members have found that the use of an UVA light has increased the coloring of their hermit crabs drastically. As noted by Tnt4eva, "the UVA light is available in higher amounts in Australia where C. Perlatus and Aussies are found". The UVA light may be a proven color enhancer in C. Perlatus as well as other species of hermit crabs.

Tank Temp:
80F

Tank Humidity:
80%

Substrate:
Half dry sand and other side of tank half coconut fiber bedding or one side sand wet to sand castle consistency the other dry. Substrate must be deep enough so that your largest crab can fully burrow. Moss pits would be beneficial. This species likes to stay dry so the added moss pits will aid in raising the humidity.

Food:
Feed fresh foods such as: unseasoned fish, beef, chicken, shrimp, etc. Fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts, grains, chitin, and foods high in calcium. Foods rich in tannins and zeaxanthin to help maintain color. Foods rich in Astaxanthin, Beta Carotine, and Zeaxanthin will help maintain the red coloring.

Commercial Food Warning:
Majority of hermit crab commercial foods have insecticides in them which are harmful because hermit crabs are from the arthropod (insect) phylum. It is best to offer dehydrated, freeze dried, and fresh foods to them. It is recommended that you give them different choices of fresh foods every other day. They need a wide variety of vitamins and minerals in their diet.

Water:
Needs access to both dechlorinated fresh and marine grade salt water. They need the water to be deep enough to allow them to clean out their shells. If you have dishes that allow them to fully submerge in the water, make sure that they have an easy way out of the dish to prevent drowning. Vines, stones, and aquarium rock can be used to create a way out.

Shells:
Jade Turbo, Spotted Turbo, Banded Jade Turbo


Molting:
No known problems are commonly associated with this species. It's recommended not to keep Indo's and Viola's together. Indo's are shallow molters and violas are hunters. The Violas have been known to dig up the indo's. However, some members have kept the two species together without incident. Monitor to find out if a mix is right for your tank community.


Other Characteristics:
Shy and docile, may prefer not to be held. Likes to climb. This species is the most terrestrial.

Should have a species buddy. It is not recommended to house a hermit crab alone as they are social creatures and can become depressed and pass away without a friend.



~Crystal
HCA: Tigermoon89

Acknowledgements and References:
I would like to thank the HCA for putting all of the care and work into hermit crabs and creating an environment for members to share experiences and learn.

I would also like to thank Suebee. If it were not for her threads and speaking with her personally, I would not have been able to create as detailed a caresheet as has been created.


Reference ID Characteristics: http://www.coenobitaspecies.com

UVA/ UVB Reference:
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/whatisuv.htm
viewtopic.php?t=78532&highlight=uva


Also, thanks to the rest of the hermit crab community for all the hard work and dedication put into studying these fascinating creatures if not for them we wouldn't have such informative sources to learn from.
Last edited by tigermoon89 on Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:33 pm, edited 19 times in total.
Crystal
"There is no right way to do the wrong thing." - KingFisher

My organic hermit crab food store, Crabby Teas is now up and running! Please feel free to check out the shop. Mention the HCA and I will include a free gift! http://www.etsy.com/shop/CrabbyTeas?ref=pr_shop
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PostAuthor: kgbenson » Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:24 pm

The commercial food warning is only mentioned in some of the care sheets. I would think about either adding it to all, or dropping it depending on your POV.

Speaking of which, consider the following as you write about Copper:

http://www.asianfisheriessociety.org/mo ... 16&lid=423

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_o ... archtype=a

Obviously copper is not bad in the strictest sense, but it is something where the levels must be correct - just like everything else.

And look further into Ethoxyquin. Find original information. This is a challenge because most links will take you to pages by laypeople who mean well, but are not entirely conversant with the data, and who often have a particular agenda. Sometimes the information is simply innaccurate, for instance, many lay-websites list Ethoxyquin as an insecticide, and yet, I cannot find an instance where it is deployed as such. It is used as a fungicide and is therefore a pesticide, but this is not the same as an insecticide. (If anyone has proof that it is used specifically to kill arthropods I would like to see it so as to have the complete story).

Copper, usually copper sulfate and Ethoxyquin take a whipping in certain circles but they are used for a reason and I do not think many folks understand their role and potential benefits in stored foods, while at the same time the detriments are difficult to measure because there is a certain level of hype.

I am happy for someone to correct any of the above information, with data not anecdote. I think we should always strive to be as accurate as possible even if that might take a little of the wind out of our arguments sails.

Having said that I would add some mention that ventilation is necessary so that people do not take the recommendation to cover with Plexiglas something they do in such a way as to eliminate airflow.

Also, I think there is some room for alternatives in your substrate section. I use approximately 10-20% coir in sand and find that separating sand and coir into two sections doesn't do mush once the crabs start to mixing it. There may well be some issues with using coir alone - at least it changes the surface of shell that are buried in it to a greater degree than sand. What this means for the crabs is another issue. Some folks feel it interferes with proper molting, others that is is not detrimental. There exists no good data on the subject so you would want to include some caveat to any recommendations you make. on the topic.

Cellulose does not really affect their coloration. Many arthropods and specifically decapods have a variety of cellulase and can digest the stuff (see: http://www.annualreviews.org/article/su ... anabe.pdf&) but is broken down into sugars and is therefore unlikely to alter their coloration. Decapods can use a wide variety of carotenoids and these compounds are the primary colorants in their exoskeletons. Probably the most potent of these is astaxanthin.

I have a number of indos, most are not brown at all. Most are purple with some orange highlights. Then there are the pinks and blue. From what I understand they can even get dark enough to look almost black.

Keith
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PostAuthor: tigermoon89 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 3:48 pm

I will look into everything you suggested.
The commercial food warning was in all of the originals. I had to repost them and didn't realize that it wasnn't in all of my copies.
I will definitely work air flow into the housing section!

Thanks!
Crystal
"There is no right way to do the wrong thing." - KingFisher

My organic hermit crab food store, Crabby Teas is now up and running! Please feel free to check out the shop. Mention the HCA and I will include a free gift! http://www.etsy.com/shop/CrabbyTeas?ref=pr_shop
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PostAuthor: kgbenson » Sun Jan 16, 2011 3:59 pm

And BTW - nice avatar . . .
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PostAuthor: tigermoon89 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 4:22 pm

kgbenson wrote:And BTW - nice avatar . . .


Thanks! I like yours too!

Also, I think there is some room for alternatives in your substrate section. I use approximately 10-20% coir in sand and find that separating sand and coir into two sections doesn't do mush once the crabs start to mixing it. There may well be some issues with using coir alone - at least it changes the surface of shell that are buried in it to a greater degree than sand. What this means for the crabs is another issue. Some folks feel it interferes with proper molting, others that is is not detrimental. There exists no good data on the subject so you would want to include some caveat to any recommendations you make. on the topic.


I agree. I'm still working on the care sheets. There are a few more things that I would like to add. I'm also going to be adding a section on UVA and UVB light and it's affects on the hermit crabs. I"m also going to be adding the info about ventilation in the housing section. The changes will be made by next week.
Crystal
"There is no right way to do the wrong thing." - KingFisher

My organic hermit crab food store, Crabby Teas is now up and running! Please feel free to check out the shop. Mention the HCA and I will include a free gift! http://www.etsy.com/shop/CrabbyTeas?ref=pr_shop
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PostAuthor: suebee » Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:36 pm

im sure everyone by now knows my feelings on substrate.. my opinion is that the safest route would be 5 parts sand to one part coir. I do change that for my thought of what would be safest for variabilis. I believe that variabilis should have sand only. Moss would be ok but i wouldnt use coir with them. My opinions are based on my own research of friends in the field as well as friends in the coenobita research field.

For added air flow i have a air pump and a air hose i turn on in one end of my tank and vent the other end by letting the press and seal up at the other end of the tank. My suggestion for astaxanthin something that i find the crabs just love it is Cyclop eeze. I give cyclop eeze to my crabs for the additional color inhancement of the Astaxanthene in the zooplanktons.

Keith i dont know your feelings on this but i think that this sheet should say brevimanus roseus if its going to mention a pink indo

on the pools i dont think they should say that the crabs need to fully submerge.. i can see the young kids drowning the crabs.. our site is mostly all very young kids.. i think deep enough for the crab to get water into the shell and wash out the shell or even half way up the shell would be better wording. Just my opinion.

suggestion for the commercial food. maybe it can say that although there are commercial foods available Hermit crabs love fresh fruits and vegetables, some of the same foods that you eat every day. Most food needs can be met without buying commercial foods. Some people have steered away from commercial foods believing that fresh is best. visit the safe and unsafe food list to see what new foods your crabs can try today to make sure they get the proper calcium, proteins as well as minerals needed for proper health, growth and molting.

The sheets im sure have been so much work! They all ready give so much more info then the old sheets. Kudos to you for taking this on tigermoon89!
I buy from ELHC or HCP, I CANNOT RECEIVE PM MESSAGES SO EMAIL ME,anytime! suebeebuzz@me.com visit my Hermit Crab Dollar Store. Crabbing from aprox 1974- I own 12 Species,On Face Book-Susan Staff's Coenobita Research of New Jersey
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PostAuthor: tigermoon89 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 10:49 pm

suebee wrote:
Keith i dont know your feelings on this but i think that this sheet should say brevimanus roseus if its going to mention a pink indo

suggestion for the commercial food. Most food needs can be met without buying commercial foods. Some people have steered away from commercial foods believing that fresh is best. visit the safe and unsafe food list to see what new foods your crabs can try today to make sure they get the proper calcium, proteins as well as minerals needed for proper health, growth and molting


I changed the commercial food warning already, it used to say this:
Commercial Food Warning:
Majority of hermit crab commercial foods have ethoxyquin and/or copper sulphate in them which are insecticides. Our crabs are from the arthropod (insect) phylum. It is best to offer dehydrated, freeze dried, and fresh foods to them. It is recommended that you give them different choices of fresh foods every other day. They need a wide variety of vitamins and minerals in their diet.


I agree on the water dishes as well.


***To everyone: please post any suggestions under the following thread:
http://www.hermitcrabassociation.com/ph ... hp?t=78010

It's the rough draft thread. This way any new members can get all the info as up to date as possible in one clean sheet without having to read a bunch of links or debates.
Crystal
"There is no right way to do the wrong thing." - KingFisher

My organic hermit crab food store, Crabby Teas is now up and running! Please feel free to check out the shop. Mention the HCA and I will include a free gift! http://www.etsy.com/shop/CrabbyTeas?ref=pr_shop
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tigermoon89
 
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