HCA: Hermit Crab Association

Since you've come to the emergency forum, we know you want a fast answer to your question. In order for us to figure out the problem as quickly as possible, we ask that you answer the following questions as best you can. Some of them may seem odd, but they're all designed to give us the information we need to give you a good solution for your problem. The things in the [ brackets ] are there to make this post easier to read once submitted. Thanks!


1. What kind of substrate is used in your tank and how deep is it?
I have hermit sand and coconut husk. It’s about 6in deep

2. Do you have gauges in the tank to measure temperature and humidity? If so, where are they located and what temperature and humidity do they usually read?
Yes it stays at 70F with 80% humidity

3. Is a heat source used in the tank? If so, what?
Hermit heating lamp

4. What types of water are available (fresh or salt) and how is the water treated (what brands of dechlorinator or salt mix and what ratio is used to mix it)?
I have hermit salt water and fresh Unchlorinated water for him

5. What kinds of food do you feed and how often is it replaced?
I have pelts for him and leave lettuce and fruit for a snack. Replaced everyday.

6. How long have you had the crab and what species is it, if known?
I have had him 1 week and he’s a blue claw hermit

7. Has your crab molted, and how long ago did it happen?
No

8. What type of housing are the crabs kept in, what size is it and what kind of lid is on the housing?
10 gallon tank mesh top.

9. How many crabs are in the tank and about how large are they?
I have 1 currently

10. How many extra shells are usually kept in the tank, if any?
None right now. I have to get some bigger ones.

11. Have there been any fumes or chemicals near the crabitat recently?

No
12. How often do you clean the tank and how?
Once a week

13. Are sponges used in the water dish? If so, how are they cleaned?
Yes and once a week

14. Has anything new been added to your crabitat recently?
No

15. Is there any other information you would like to share that might be helpful (anything that is regularly part of your crab care, playtime, bathing, etc.)?

16. Please describe the emergency situation in detail.


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A carnival came to your town and I got a hermit crab. I have had hermit crabs before but I think this one is sick. The first night I got him he drank sooo much water. But seen then he hasn’t ate or drank. He hasn’t moved either. I am worried about him. He isn’t dead but I am worried he might be dying. Poor guy just wasn’t takin care of. I just don’t know what I can do for him. I have tried everything I know possible to do. He doesn’t have a odor so I don’t think he’s molting.

Shantelbenzu wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:02 am

1. Hermit Sand, if it is the sand often sold by pet stores is calcium sand and is not safe for hermits. It not only molds, but stinks when wet and hardens to cement around the crabs themselves, sticking to them. Children's Playsand (silica based) or cocofiber, or a mix of the two, in a 5:1 mixture of sand to cocofiber, is the preferred and safe substrate. It should be moist around sand castle constancy.

4. Much like the sand, Saltwater sold for hermit crabs is not only expensive long term, but also not the best for them. Marine Salt such as Instant Ocean, is what your looking for. It is sold in boxes or bags in the saltwater fish section in most pet stores.

5.Pelets are not a supported food source here on HCA, we promote a wide healthy diet. Many of the items you would find in your house offer better nutrition for half the cost and no hidden preservatives or pesticides that could be harmful to your crab. To find out more information you can check these links:

Safe Food List
Unsafe and Unpopular Foods List
Comercial (Store Bought) Foods
Hermit Crab Nutrition

10. You should aim for 3-5 extra shells per crab when you get to buying them. If you post a picture we can help you identify your crab and the best type of shells to choose from.

13. You can ditch the sponge, they harbor bacteria and are not really needed. All you need to do is have a way for your crabs to climb safely out of their water bowls. Why we are on the subject of bowls, they should be deep enough for the crab to submerge in. A few rocks or shell at the bottom, or some craft mesh to create a ramp can give them a safe entry and exit point.

16. Starting from the beginning:
Are you sure that he is not eating and drinking? Land hermit crabs are nocturnal, which means they are active at night while we are sleeping. They are also very small animals and have very small stomachs, I have 4 and I can barely tell when they eat or not, unless I am up late and happen to catch them, or they really liked whatever was on the menu at night, and I only use about a teaspoon worth of food.

Your Hermit Crab could be suffering from PPS more on that here:
Health: Post Purchase Syndrome, or Why Is My New Crab Sick
The best thing to do is leave him alone, offer lots of fresh food, the correct substrate and give them time to destress, and molt. Some crabs make it and some do not. When your conditions are ideal it greatly improves their chances. I also suggest poking around the board and reading the care sheet. It has a lot of the information I mentioned here on it, and other useful information and links as well. It is located HERE




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Angelbear gave you some great tips and advice there. It will definitely help you with getting everything set up for a healthy crab.

These are the only points not addressed in her reply.

2. To get your temperature a little higher. Safe temperature is considered 74 and higher for purple pinchers. Low temperatures can make crabs sluggish and inactive, even not eat. You can add some insulation to the sides and top of your crabitat. Reflectix is an easy to use type that can be found in home improvement stores. You can also cover the screen top with plastic wrap blanket or towel to help hold in more heat. See number 3.

3. Using heat lights makes it difficult to keep temperature ideal day and night. Hermits require 12/12 hour day and night cycle. Turning the heat light off will lower the temperature overnight. The best way to combat this is to add an UTH, under tank heater. The UTH should cover the entire length of the rear glass and from the top of substrate to the top of the tank. For a 10 gallon tank an 11" x 17" UTH is about perfect. Some UTH's like Zoomeds can't be insulated as described in #3. Ultratherm and Flukers brands can be insulated and are easily removable to put on another tank if you decide to upgrade later.

4. Using a dechlorinator a must for all drinking and cleaning waters that go into the tank. Seachems Prime is the most popular used for keeping hermits.

5. The link in my signature will direct you a lot of various hermit food, shell and various vendors that offer tons of their needs!

I know I'm not an expert like the others who responded to you but I just wanted to add something. I would add a tiny bit of stress coat to your water to help the crab destress, just be sure to use a trusted brand. I hope all goes well and I know how you feel, my first hermits were rescued from a beach store.